Retinoids Explained: Myths, Purging, Irritation & How to Use Them Properly

Are retinoids ruining your skin, or transforming it?

From viral misinformation to real clinical evidence, this episode tackles the biggest retinoid myths, like whether they thin your skin or cause inflammation.

Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid give you a step-by-step guide to using prescription retinoids safely and effectively.

What You’ll Learn in This Episode:

• Do retinoids thin the skin? (Spoiler: no. This episode covers what they actually do)
• The difference between retinol vs prescription retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene
• Why retinoids are the gold standard for anti-ageing and acne
• What “retinization” and retinoid dermatitis really looks like

How to manage:

• What purging is (and how long it lasts)
• Why your skin might react differently in cold UK weather
• The biggest skincare mistake: combining retinoids with exfoliating acids
• Why SPF is essential when using retinoids

How to Use Retinoids (Dermatologist-Approved Routine)

A step-by-step approach to minimise irritation:

1. Apply to dry skin (wait 20–30 minutes after washing)
2. Avoid sensitive areas (corners of nose, mouth, eyes)
3. Start slowly and build consistency
4. Use the “moisturiser sandwich” technique if needed
5. Try short-contact therapy for sensitive skin
6. Keep your routine simple—avoid over-exfoliating

Retinoid Side Effects Explained

Retinoid dermatitis: dry, red, flaky patches (often around nose/mouth) Purging: temporary breakouts as skin turnover increases Sensitivity changes due to environment, illness, or product changes

Products mentioned:

• La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M
• La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5
• Avène Cicalfate Restorative Protective Cream
• Peptide-based moisturisers (barrier-supporting)
• Hydrocolloid spot patches (zit stickers)
• Niacinamide (around 4%) serums

⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to⁠klira.skin⁠

Follow & Connect with us ⬇️

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic 

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Email: ⁠[email protected]⁠

Send in your questions!

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

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