Fashion and apparel. It touches nearly everyone. When its at its best, fashion and apparel is not only functional, but also fun, expressive, sexy, and for some businesses, very profitable. But when it is at its worst, fashion and apparel is superficial, exploitative, polluting and extremely wasteful – in other words the essence of unsustainable consumption. And while it is argued that the industry’s rapid growth has created employment opportunities for more than 300 million people worldwide, especially for women in poorer countries and those in extreme poverty, many garment workers still struggle to earn enough to pay to meet even their most basic needs. More alarming is the fact that as the industry grows – by 2030 more than 8 billion people will live on the planet, and nearly 5 billion of these will be part of the global middle class – its negative environmental impacts may become unmanageable, potentially undermining its social benefits and contributing to ecosystem degradation on local, regional and global scales.
Who would have thought garments could be so destructive?
The fashion industry must change now, but will we manage in time? Join Mike Schragger, founder of the Sustainable Fashion Academy, as he explores the challenges, incentives and disincentives and emerging solutions needed to rapidly transform the industry. Listen in as he talks with the business leaders, activists, researchers, innovators and entrepreneurs, investors, legislators, consumers and citizens – who are racing against the clock to find solutions that will transform the industry, thus ensuring it truly operates for the benefit of people and the planet.
www.sustainablefashionacademy.org/podcasts/big-closets-small-planet
A few years ago Professor Jason Hickel was invited to speak during an annual Textile Exchange conference. Why was that invitation noteworthy? Because Jason is an advocate for degrowth in fashion. Fast forward to 2024 and Textile Exchange released the report Reimagining Growth Landscape Analysis. Perhaps Jason’s intervention struck a chord? In this conversation, Michael speaks with Beth Jensen from Textile Exchange and Rachel Arthur, the report’s lead author, to explore the reasoning behind and the conclusions drawn in the report. In short, the report concludes that the industry’s current trajectory is incompatible with achieving key climate, nature, and human rights goals, because impacts will only increase while growth remains a business imperative. Michael, Beth and Rachel explore what an alternative approach could look like, including the challenging concepts and terminology needed to frame the discussion, whether apparel business leaders are or can ever be receptive to this analysis, and what possible pathways they see for moving this agenda forward.
“Focusing on business as usual is not really an option. If we don't address this, we won't meet our sustainability goals or the Paris Agreement.”
“Today’s CEOs have a fiduciary duty to report growth—that’s the reality we’re working within. It’s why this conversation is both sensitive and necessary.”
“Green growth hasn’t yet been proven possible — not in the short timeframe we have, and not on a continuous basis.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest experts, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
Ken Pucker, former COO at Timberland and now Professor of Practice at Tufts University, sustainable industry analyst, opinion columnist and critic, views himself as a completely independent voice when it comes to issues concerning fashion and sustainability. During last year’s Climate Action Week, Michael and Ken discussed a number of topics, including his views regarding the rise and negative impacts of instant fashion and why voluntary sustainability initiatives do not work and thus why we need smart legislation. We invited Ken back to comment on what has happened in the past year regarding instant fashion, including the continuing saga involving Shein’s IPO and its newly approved science-based target, the status of the New York and California Fashion Acts, how congestion pricing could be a model climate action in the apparel industry, circular fantasies and myth busting, and whether he thinks his work is having an impact. Ken is always very insightful and thought provoking.
“Shein’s emissions are now the biggest in the industry. They’ve grown 3x in the last three years.”
“Congestion pricing worked in New York and London. Why not apply similar thinking to fashion?”
“I recognise that I am in a special place, I am gifted the opportunity to be independent and most people cannot be. So I don’t take that responsibility or gift lightly.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest experts, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
The idea that the fashion and apparel industry can continue to grow by employing a green-growth model has been questioned by many leading thinkers. It is argued that for the industry to reduce its emissions at the pace and scale required and to operate within the planetary boundaries, overproduction and overconsumption must stop. This is especially challenging because, as critics explain, the dominant economic business model relies on growth, and business growth often neutralizes gains in emission reductions. During Climate Action Week 2024, Katia Dayan Vladimirova, Chief Executive Officer at the Post Growth Fashion Agency, and Luca Boniolo from ECOS, presented their argument on why a sufficiency approach is the best way forward. In this conversation they go a step further explaining the concrete steps that the EU and the industry should take to implement this approach.
"The logic of sufficiency forces us to ask: how much is enough?"
"We propose limiting the number of fashion collections per year and introducing binding targets on production volumes."
For more information about this podcast and our guest experts, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
The Kappahl Group is a signatory in STICA’s Company Climate Action Program. That is why we invited Elisabeth Peregi, CEO of the Kappahl Group, for a conversation about how a CEO from a midsized, privately owned apparel brand understands the challenges and opportunities with climate action. Michael and Elisabeth discuss if it’s possible to achieve financial growth and reduce emissions simultaneously, if legislation and financial incentives are necessary to enable the Kappahl Group and the industry overall to achieve their climate targets, how long term relationships and authentic engagement are the keys to ensuring success in decarbonization, and even the role of business in society.
“We’ve decided that the growth we want to achieve must be both profitable and sustainable at the same time.”
“Reducing or transforming to renewable energy is good — but it’s even better if you reduce the energy needed in the first place.”
“The transformation will not be done only on a voluntary basis… we need legislation and supervision to help businesses change.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
During STICA’s 2024 Climate Action Week, Maxine Bédat and her colleagues from the NRDC and the New York State Assembly updated us on the arguments for and status of the New York Fashion Act. Since then more has happened. Similar bills have been introduced in California and Massachusetts. In this conversation, Michael asks Maxine to provide an update on the status of the bills, including how they address climate action specifically, if and how the bills align or differ, why she thinks they will be effective, and why there are no major industry organizations and only a few global brands officially supporting these bills.
“This is not counter to industry. This is a pro-industry bill. It sets the basic guardrails so the industry can thrive in the future.”
“What doesn’t make sense to me is that the industry created these standards—and now they’re opposing them when asked to follow through.”
“If you're not in favor of this bill and not actively promoting it, that is the position of the industry today. That’s a shocking and sad state of affairs.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
During the past few years, a number of NGO campaign organizations, sometimes referred to as watchdogs, have set their sights on accelerating climate action in the apparel industry. Michael sat down Ruth MacGilp from Action Speaks Louder and Liv Simpliciano from Fashion Revolution to discuss what they want brands and other stakeholders to be doing, their complementary methods for getting them to do it, and how they assess progress to date. Their conversation explored topics such as the importance of data and transparency to support informed action, new reporting demands that ask brands to disclose how much they are investing in climate action in their supply chains, what pressure can and is achieving, and when legislation is needed.
“We need brands to push for a fully renewable supply chain by 2040 to help accelerate clean energy adoption in key manufacturing hubs.”
“There’s a huge amount of low-hanging fruit that brands are not yet doing—some of it is even cost-saving.”
“Greater transparency enables public scrutiny and accountability, which can drive the systemic change we’re ultimately campaigning for.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
According to a recent report by the European Environment Agency, the greenhouse gas emissions from textile consumption in the EU was 355kg CO2e per person (based on 2022 data). So how does the EU Commission, which is responsible for developing and implementing the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, think about climate action and textiles? Michael invited Matjaž Malgaj, the Coordinator of the cross-Directorate General team (DG ENV, DG GROW, and DG ENER) that works on making sustainable products the norm in the EU, and Head of Unit for Sustainable Products in DG ENV, to weigh in. Michael asked Matjaž about the EU Commission's view on climate action in the context of apparel and textiles, whether the commission wants the industry to align itself with science-based targets and whether the EU apparel industry and its citizens should reduce its emissions inline with the 1.5C pathway. Michael and Matjaž discuss whether the current and coming legislation will enable decarbonisation at the pace and scale science says is required, which particular pieces of legislation will be most effective and how the Commission thinks about addressing the fact that a significant amount of the industry’s emissions are created in countries outside of the EU. Michael pushed the conversation even further by asking Matjaž to weigh in on the tension between economic growth and competitiveness and environmental targets, ultra-fast fashion and overconsumption, financial rewards and penalties and what the EU can and cannot do. If you want to know how the EU Commission currently thinks about climate action in the context of the apparel industry, then you should definitely listen to this!
“Everything we do should be seen in the context of becoming a decarbonised net society by 2050.”
“Just the regulations on their own will not do everything… we know there is an issue of overconsumption.”
“We heard time and time again that we should be ambitious, but we also have to be sure that we’re designing something that can actually be rolled out in real life.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
Hakan Karaosman, whose mother was a garment worker, is a Professor in supply chain management from Cardiff University. Six years ago, Hakan and his colleagues asked “Where are the workers' voices in the discussions and decisions about climate strategies?” At that time no one was looking into fairness, inclusion, and justice in the context of climate action. Since then his research has uncovered inconvenient truths and best practices. In this conversation Michael and Hakan explore what is a “Just Transition” both theoretically and in practice. Hakan presents conclusions from his research, including his and his colleague’s work on what they call the transition archetypes, while arguing that technological and efficiency paradigms will not solve the problem. Hakan also suggests alternative approaches.
“Just transition is not happening. Strategies are still top-down. We're trying to shoehorn social justice into systems designed for profit.”
“Decarbonisation is framed around technology and efficiency. But what we need is democracy, inclusion, and behavioural change.”
“Unless we talk with people from the beginning, we will keep creating policies that harm the very communities we claim to protect.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
Nandita Shivakumar is a labor organizer and campaigner whose work has focused on gender justice, sustainability, and migrant rights in global fashion supply chains. She also represents the Tamil Nadu Textile and Common Labour Union (TTCU), a 12,000 worker strong, Dalit women-led trade union, working to ensure dignity, safety and decent work for textile workers. In this conversation Nandita describes how she is witnessing first hand the impacts of global warming and specifically increasing heat stress on garment workers. As she describes it, increasing heat and temperatures are having significant impacts on workers' health, particularly health problems for female workers, and is putting their lives at risk now. Michael and Nandita discuss the problem, the lack of accountability, the solutions, and the need to act now.
“Fashion’s climate crisis is not a future risk for us. Our workers are living through it now - factories hitting 40°C, no ventilation, no water, no rest.”
“We’re already hearing of fainting, dehydration, heat rashes, and haemorrhoids among workers - but they can’t afford medical care.”
“The greatest responsibility must fall on those with the most power and profit - and that’s the brands and governments.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
The Laudes Foundation is one of the few philanthropic organizations that funds sustainability initiatives that specifically impact the apparel industry. The Foundation is also actively promoting the need for a Just Transition. That is why Michael Schragger invited Amol Mehra, human rights lawyer and Director of Industry Programmes at the Laudes Foundation, to explain the Foundation’s definition, vision and strategy for enabling a Just Transition in the apparel industry. Michael and Amol discuss the problems with brand driven climate action and why suppliers and workers need to be in the center of the climate transition, why Amol thinks that global warming poses serious business risks for the industry and how embedding sustainability into the core of business is the only way to survive and thrive as a company, and what specific initiatives that Laudes is supporting, such as the Just Transition Center soon to be launched in Bangladesh during 2025.
“If you're doing decarbonisation right, there can be beneficial outcomes for workers and communities — but they need to be at the center of the process.”
“The success or failure of a fashion transformation doesn’t start with brands. The missing middle of the supply chain is where most of the action will live or die.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
Already today global warming is having an impact on companies, workers and communities in countries where a majority of global production currently takes place. In particular, heat stress is increasing. But while brands, buyers and manufacturers set targets to reduce their emissions, do they understand the impacts of heat stress on workers today and will they take sufficient action as this problem continues to grow? Are they also aware of the business risks they are facing if they fail to invest in climate adaptation in their supply chains? In 2023, the Cornell ILR Global Labor Institute, in collaboration with Schroders, conducted an analysis called Higher Ground, assessing the economic damage that extreme heat and intense flooding can cause for fashion production. They modeled 2030 and 2050 impacts for brands and retailers, manufacturers and workers, governments and investors. In 2024 they followed up with an additional analysis, Hot Air, evaluating whether high heat and high humidity are accelerating faster than their climate models initially projected. Michael speaks with Jason Judd, Executive Director of the ILR Global Labor Institute, about what this new analysis tells us, whether companies and industry stakeholders are listening, and what he wants to see happen in the coming year to ensure the industry takes heat stress very seriously.
“Heat stress has been accelerating. That means our original projections may actually underestimate the damage unless there are interventions.”
“Technically, solving this isn’t hard. These firms are sophisticated - they can track factory-level data and police heat thresholds. The real issue is political.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
The Apparel Impact Institute (Aii) has become a central player in setting and implementing the apparel industry’s decarbonization agenda. To achieve this, Aii conducts industry analysis, sets industry targets, engages brands, suppliers, philanthropic and financial institutions all with the aim to support brands and manufacturers to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions. In this conversation, Michael checks in with Lewis Perkins, President & CEO of Aii, to discuss how the work is progressing and what he sees as the current challenges and opportunities for the industry overall. Michael and Lewis discuss and debate who should be responsible for an overall industry strategy, how much money has been committed to decarbonization to date and whether that money is still an essential component of success. They also dive into more sensitive topics like who should pay for climate action. Lewis even addresses how he thinks about the soul of money! If that is not enough, they also discuss financial rewards and penalties, overconsumption and sufficiency. Lewis’s insights and perspectives are important for all stakeholders who want to learn about the Aii approach and to understand what gaps still need to be filled.
“We’re playing the role of getting good solutions from the pilot phase to scalable phase. That’s the missing mile in this industry.”
“We launched the Fashion Climate Fund with the goal to reduce 100 million tonnes of CO₂ by 2030. But we can only do it if everyone steps up.”
“We need a common worldview in this industry. Without it, everyone’s pulling in different directions.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
Learn more about the topic in this webinar from Climate Action Week 2024: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2024/session-203/
Lutz Walter founded and leads the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing (Textile ETP), a network of research and technology experts from the textile sector, including representatives from universities and technology centers from all over Europe. Lutz is a thoughtful thinker and analyst when it comes to the future of the European textile industry, and so we wanted to hear his views on the potential of the European industry to reach its science-based climate targets and what role innovation can and should play. Michael and Lutz discuss a range of topics, including why misinformation can lead to bad decisions and policies and therefore why there is a need to define the climate challenge as accurately as possible, why he believes in focusing on energy systems and electrification, and which climate investments he thinks will give the most “bang for the buck”. They also discuss the challenge of overconsumption and the problem with the fashion business model, the potential of European legislation to drive change, whether the EU is investing sufficiently in sustainable innovations, and why textile recycling will continue to struggle with scaling.
“Sustainability was not on the radar in 2006. It only really emerged as a strategic priority for the European textile industry around 2009 or 2010.”
“We need to separate global from local challenges. CO₂ emissions are a global problem - they demand global solutions.”
“We should be optimizing for the lowest impact per wear. The more times you wear a garment, the less impact it has.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
To reach their greenhouse gas emissions reduction targets and to transform their businesses, companies are hoping they can increasingly replace revenues from their current business models with revenues from circular business models – that is repair, resale or subscription services. The theory is that these models are better for the climate because they extend the life of garments and replace the need for virgin production. Still, while many companies have experimented with these new models, most report that they are still a minor part of their revenue stream and business strategy. This is because companies implementing these models face a number of challenges, including weak financial incentives and underoptimised infrastructure for reverse logistics, and a lack of consensus on how to measure their climate benefits. Michael invited Merryn Haines-Gadd, Circular Business Model expert from WRAP, a global environmental action NGO, to share WRAP’s learnings and insights from working with UK based companies, and to explain in particular why we need a standardized way to measure whether circular business models offset or displace the purchase of new or virgin clothing.
“Circular business models need to deliver on impact, offer a great customer experience, and be financially viable. We can’t scale them if they don’t work on all three levels.”
“Displacement is key—are circular models actually replacing new purchases? For secondhand sales, we found about 64.6% of items displace buying new.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
Learn more about the topic in this webinar from Climate Action Week 2024: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2024/session-404/
The Good Fashion Fund (GFF) was launched in 2018 to demonstrate that an impact fund that supports textile suppliers in their sustainability journey, especially midsize manufacturers operating in tiers 1-3, can result in substantial climate and environmental improvements, positive social impacts and financial returns for investors. We invited those managing this fund, Bob Assenberg and Jayanth Kashyap, to explain why they believe the GFF model is now proven and, with refinements, can be scaled. This conversation explores the lessons learned to date from their specific partnerships in India and Bangladesh, including how best to combine both environmental and social impact, how close relationships and technical support are crucial for success, and the need for equal partnerships. Bob and Jayanth also explain their vision and timeline for the next fund. Bob and Jayanth argue that there are so many mid-sized suppliers that need support and they hope this fund’s model can inspire and be replicated by other investors.
“What we’re trying to do is direct capital into the actual sites of transformation - and those are the factories.”
“We’ve demonstrated that investments in sustainability can deliver over 50% reductions in water use, energy, or chemicals - and still be financially viable.”
“The biggest barrier isn’t technical - it’s financial. And the players with the deepest pockets are still not incentivizing the change.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest experts, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
Learn more about the topic in this webinar from Climate Action Week 2024: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2024/session-203/
Nicole Rycroft from Canopy believes “next-gen” materials are to forests and climate as renewables are to fossil fuels and climate. Her organization’s strategy is to remove the incentive to cut down forests, especially endangered forests, which play a crucial role in climate action. According to Nicole, man-made cellulosic fibers are the third largest fiber type used in apparel (think rayon, modal, viscose, Lyocell) and they are derived from forest ecosystems. Canopy reports that 300 million trees are cut down every year to make viscose and rayon textiles, and the demand is growing quite aggressively. That is why Nicole and Canopy are working to foster low carbon circular alternatives to forest derived clothing or packaging. Nicole explains that clothing or packaging can be made from inputs that would otherwise be burned or landfilled and in conversation with Michael she outlines what she sees as a fast developing ecosystem that is on the verge of a breakthrough, not unlike what has happened in the EV and renewable energy spaces. They discuss the technologies, financing, companies and regions where a new next-gen economy is taking shape.
“Next-gen materials are to forests and climate what renewables are to fossil fuels and climate.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest experts, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
The H&M Group, a STICA signatory, is by far the largest emitter of greenhouse gases among those companies participating in STICA’s Company Climate Action Program. From a sustainability perspective, H&M has been criticized for its business model, while in the context of climate action it has received praise for its climate leadership. Michael invited two of H&M’s climate experts, Henrik Sundberg and Kim Hellström, to provide an update on the H&M Group’s climate work to date. Henrik and Kim discuss their experience with climate calculations, including the challenges with primary data collection and carbon accounting, key insights and surprises on their climate journey, including their view on energy efficiency versus carbon intensity, and how H&M addresses user phase emissions and circular business models. Michael also asked them how they rate industry progress overall and what more needs to happen to ensure the industry meets its 2030 targets.
“We spent years thinking energy efficiency would get us there. The real breakthrough was understanding it’s about carbon intensity—where the energy comes from.”
“We can’t manage what we don’t measure. That’s why granular data has been such a game changer for us—on the ground, with real energy use.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest experts, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
In on-going discussions about who is responsible for bearing the cost of sustainability investments in the supply chain, one issue emerges repeatedly: that there are power imbalances between buyers and manufacturers and that more equal partnerships are needed if manufacturers are going to be able to invest in more sustainable solutions. It is therefore not surprising that this debate continues in the context of climate action. A growing group of stakeholders argue that the current approach to climate action by brands and buyers shifts the main responsibility to reach climate goals on manufacturers, and that this approach is not only unfair, but unrealistic and ineffective. Michael invited Dr. Vidhura Ralapanawe, Executive Vice President for Innovation and Sustainability at Epic Group, Saqib Sohail, Responsible Business Lead at Artistic Milliners, and Kim van der Weerd, representing the newly launched Fashion Producer Collective, to discuss if and how this debate has evolved during the past year, what they see as the main problems with the current approach, and why they believe a paradigm shift is needed, moving from a brand directed manufacturer executed model of climate action to a manufacturer driven brand supported model.
“Fashion’s climate strategies are failing because they weren’t designed with manufacturers. They’re supposed to execute plans they didn’t help create.”
“We need a complete ecosystem shift. Until then, manufacturers alone can’t carry the climate burden for the entire value chain.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest experts, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
Learn more about the topic in this webinar from Climate Action Week 2024: https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2024/session-302/
Experts working with the Apparel Impact Institute are developing the first quantitative performance evaluation benchmarks for apparel and textiles in order to clearly compare the performance of one facility vs another in the areas of energy and emissions. Kurt Kipka, Chief Impact Officer at Apparel Impact Institute, and Phil Patterson, founder of Colour Connections, are optimistic that this approach can dramatically accelerate decarbonization in the supply chain because it will reward better performing companies and give worse performers the feedback they need to improve. They explain that this approach has been used in chemicals and water management and is having a positive effect. Kurt and Phil are confident that this initiative will help brands and suppliers, especially 1800 of the biggest carbon emitting factories, accelerate decarbonization. They also argue that ultimately this may be a more effective approach than relying on the enforcement of fragmented legislation now emerging in different parts of the world. Will these benchmarks be the game changer they are hoping for? Listen to Kurt and Phil make their case.
“A quantitative benchmark sounds a little bit wonky, but ultimately what we feel we're putting into position is the ability to give a clear comparison of one facility or producer of products performance from an energy and emission standpoint against another. And that isn't necessarily to pick favourites or to be able to downplay work that one supplier is doing compared to another. More than anything, it's to give credit where credit is effectively due, something that's been elusive in this sector for quite some time.”
For more information about this podcast and our guest experts, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
We wanted a broader perspective on the state of decarbonization in apparel supply chains from a practitioner who is working actively in this field. So we turned to Peter Ford. Peter spent the past six years at the H&M Group, starting out managing factory-level environmental sustainability in Cambodia, Vietnam and Myanmar, before overseeing global decarbonisation implementation and the Green Fashion Initiative. Now, at EnergyLab Asia, he is using this knowledge to support the climate transition for the broader industry. Michael asked Peter to weigh in on a variety of current topics, including whether he is optimistic that the industry can hit its 2030 emissions reduction targets, the impact tariffs could have on climate actions and whether waterless dyeing technology will soon change the game. They also talked about which companies he thinks are serious about climate action and which are not, and whether a few serious actors can pull the industry with them. If that was not enough, Peter also reflects on how he perceives the demands from NGO watchdogs organizations, the pros and cons of the SBTi framework and whether industry initiatives are working. There is lots to learn from here.
“If just one ambitious brand sources from a factory, it can accelerate the whole factory’s decarbonisation journey.”
“The waterless dyeing revolution could reduce energy demand by 70 to 80%. That’s a game changer."
For more information about this podcast and our guest expert, or to listen to other Climate Action Week 2025 podcast conversations, please visit https://sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica/climate-action-week-2025/
Is our current for-profit economic model a root cause of many of today's sustainability challenges generally, and specifically in apparel and fashion? Dr. Jennifer Hinton, author and Post-Doctoral Fellow at The Centre for Environmental and Climate Science at University of Lund, has concluded so. She studies how societies relate to profit and how this relationship affects global environmental and social challenges. She has come to conclusion that a not-for-profit economy is better suited to our societal needs and that it should be applied to fashion and apparel as well. Listen in as we discuss Jennifer Hinton's analysis, her definition of a not-for-profit business, its relevance for fashion and apparel, Patagonia's new foundation, de-growth, and her proposals for a total transition from for-profit businesses to not-for-profit businesses. To learn more, visit www.jenniferhinton.org.
Ken Pucker, former Timberland COO and current Professor at the Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy at Tufts, recently published a series of pieces critiquing the circular agenda for fashion. In this content rich interview, Ken explains the history of how market-led voluntary solutions became the norm and the rise of what he calls Sustainability Inc., how circularity in the fashion industry is just another attempt to maintain the unsustainable status quo, the seven barriers preventing circularity from being a realistic solution, and what he thinks we need to do instead to ensure this industry can operate within the planetary boundaries. We discuss whether commercial companies are consciously deceiving their stakeholders about the potential of circularity, the limitations of unfettered capitalism and the psychology behind growth, and whether the industry should be much smaller. For more background, read his Business of Fashion opinion piece "Circularity is a Fashionable Fantasy" and his articles in the Stanford Social Innovation Review, "A Circle that is Not So Easily Squared: Can the fashion industry make a successful turn to a circular business model?" and "The Dangerous Allure of Win-Win Strategies".
Sweden has a reputation for being a sustainability leader in many areas, so you can imagine how curious we were to learn about a newish proposal from the current Swedish government for a chemical tax on textiles. The proposal was recently made available to stakeholders for comment, and of course, a robust debate has ensued. Is this proposal, as presented today, going to lead to a reduction in harmful chemicals in Sweden and globally? Or is it a smoke screen for a government that is looking for ways to raise revenues for its national budget? And is the proposal a done deal, given the political parties agreed to this ahead of time when forming a government? In Part 1 of this episode, Michael speaks first with textile industry representatives to hear why they think the proposed tax is very problematic. You will hear from Jérôme Pero, Secretary General for the Federation of the European Sporting Goods Industry, Magnus Nikkarinen, Senior Policy Director in Sustainability at the Swedish Trade Federation, Mikael Larsson, researcher at the RISE Research Institute in Sweden, Eliina Brinkberg, Environmental Manager from Nudie Jeans Co. and Anna-Karin Dahlberg, Head of Sustainability at Lindex. In Part 2 you will hear from actors and experts who are more positive to the proposed chemical tax. Given we need bold and smart government leadership more than ever, we think this is an excellent case study for exploring what good government leadership can look like as well as which government actions can be problematic.
Sasja Beslik, Head of Sustainable Finance Development at J Safra Sarasin, fled Bosnia when he was 18 to escape the war. He ended up in Sweden and today spends his time leveraging the power of the financial sector to improve the world. He is particularly interested in the fashion industry's impact on people and has recently attracted attention for his calculations showing that a well-known fashion brand could afford to pay living wages to garment workers by increasing the prices on their clothes by only a few cents. In this interview Sasja weighs in on the apparel industry's sustainability performance and - spoiler alert - he comes down very hard on the industry. Sasja and Mike cover a range of topics, including the strengths, weaknesses and greenwashing of the sustainable investment industry in general, why he thinks apparel brands should be more directly responsible for paying living wages to factory workers, why a t-shirt should be more expensive, and why, despite it all, the fashion industry is still worth investing in.
You've heard it before: The global environmental challenges we face are daunting and time sensitive. If we want to avoid catastrophic tipping points, we need to move quickly and ambitiously. If we want to achieve the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) we need to invest trillions of dollars. And so we scratch our heads and wonder if the actions we are currently taking are meaningful. We wonder if we must choose between economic development, job creation and the environment. And we cannot help but feel that even though our intentions are good, our actions amount to the equivalent of moving the deck chairs on a sinking ship. But what if there is a way to accelerate change at the pace we need, and create benefits for people and the planet? And what if the way to get there is by leveraging our tax system as a tool for transformative change? Most people like to stay away from tax, either because it's unsexy, too complicated, or punitive. But tax policy is the fundamental way we steer our nations and fund our public services. So what can tax policy, and tax reform do for the apparel industry? In this episode Michael talks with Femke Groothuis from the think tank Ex'tax about the potential power of tax reform to change the apparel industry. Femke explains both the theory and practice of green tax reform, and presents the results from recent case studies applying these principles in both high income countries in the European Union and Bangladesh. One of her key messages is that if countries use tax reform effectively, they will not have to choose between economic development and the environment. And this perspective has gained even more relevance since the Covid-19 induced economic crisis has put domestic revenues, jobs and sustainable growth at the top of the priority list worldwide.
This podcast is supported by the Laudes Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and TENCEL™. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
As a listener of Big Closets Small Planet, you are likely interested and engaged in changing the apparel industry. So for those of you who are keen to strengthen your change agent skills, we are introducing a new segment called Leading Change. In this first episode we are joined by Per Espen Stoknes who is that rare combination of thinker and doer. He is a psychologist, economist, politician, and the author of "What We Think About When We Try Not To Think About Global Warming". In conversation with Mike, Per Espen illustrates how psychological research helps explain why we do so little when we know so much, and how we can harness this research to find better solutions for driving change. We cover a broad range of issues, including the five psychological barriers to climate action, concrete solutions to overcome these barriers, Per Espen's surprising analysis of Greta Thunberg's strengths and weaknesses as a change agent and why we as change agents should stand up for our depression - even if being sad about the state of the world can feel counterproductive. Tune in to get inspired and receive concrete tips on how to be a better change agent!
This podcast is supported by the Laudes Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and TENCEL™. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
In this new segment we will explore commonly repeated "factoids" in order to determine whether they are substantive and useful. Perhaps you have heard the statement that the production and use of clothing creates more climate impact than that of flights and shipping combined? A range of organisations - including the United Nations - have referred to this when promoting the need for climate action in the fashion and textiles industry. But is this statement true? Mike spoke with Simon Glover, a journalist from Ecotextile News who recently investigated this topic, and Sandra Roos, a textile researcher at RISE Institute in Sweden, to learn what they found after digging deeper. Sandra also uses the opportunity to propose three things that are needed to ensure industry stakeholders have access to credible analysis to base their actions on.
The impacts of the corona virus on the apparel sector have been fast and furious. We are all affected, but millions of low-wage garment workers are facing a potentially catastrophic situation. In this episode we talk to a number of experts and union representatives to better understand what is happening on the ground, what responsibility buyers have for ensuring workers get paid, what this crisis reveals about the apparel supply chain, and if Bangladesh will ever be the same. You will hear from a number of smart and committed people: Mark Anner, Associate Professor in Labor & Employment Relations; Anne-Laure Henry-Greard from the ILO / IFC BetterWork Program; Jenny Holdcroft, the Assistant General Secretary at the IndustriALL Global Union; Towhidur Rahman, President of the Bangladesh Apparel Workers Federation; and Amina Razvi, Executive Director, Sustainable Apparel Coalition.
This podcast is supported by the Laudes Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and TENCEL™. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
The Fabricant, a digital fashion house, recently sold a piece of digital clothing - clothing that is only available in digital environments - for over 9000 USD. This experience helped them realise that their expertise in 3-d digital modelling could be used for a better purpose: creating a new industry sector for digital only clothing which is very good for business and the planet. Mike speaks with Amber Slooten, Fabricant’s Creative Director and Adriana Hoppenbrouwer, Fabricant’s Commercial Director about the potential for digital clothing to meet our short term fashion desires while reducing negative environmental impacts. We talk #outfitoftheday, market potential, gaming, social media behaviours, fast fashion, human needs and more. Is this the future of sustainable fashion?
This podcast is supported by the Laudes Foundation (formerly the C&A Foundation), The Rylander Foundation, and TENCEL™. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
...to develop and mainstream the sustainable apparel innovations required to meet key sustainability goals for the apparel industry. Listeners of this podcast series are familiar with our on-going focus on the crucial role finance and investment plays in enabling industry transformation. For the past two years SFA and Fashion for Good have been convening stakeholders to analyse this topic while calling for an analysis estimating how much financial investment is needed. Now we have it! A new report "Financing the Transformation in the Fashion industry" makes a strong case for what financial investment is needed. Michael spoke with two of the report's authors, Katrin Ley from Fashion for Good and Catharina Martinez-Pardo from BCG. Katrin and Catharina explain how they estimated the amount of finance required, what six barriers currently prevent access to this capital, and what six solutions should be implemented to overcome these barriers. If you truly want to understand how the innovation and finance space should work, this is the interview for you. It also reminds us that actors who are serious about transforming the industry need to be honest about what it will take, and will need to act to implement these solutions now.
This podcast is supported by the Laudes Foundation (formerly the C&A Foundation), The Rylander Foundation, and TENCEL™. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
In this new segment - Make Your Case - Big Closets Small Planet provides industry experts and stakeholders a platform to argue for a particular position or perspective. In this episode, Lewis Perkins, President of the Apparel Impact Institute (AII), outlines his organisation’s vision and advice for accelerating change in the apparel industry. He makes a case for why the duplication of efforts will slow industry progress, and warns against starting new initiatives when existing initiatives can deliver the impact needed. He also outlines the key steps he believes needs to happen to ensure significant progress is made. This is thought provoking opinion piece, so have a listen and let us know what you think by contacting us at bigclosets@sustrainablefashionacademy.org.
This podcast is supported by the Laudes Foundation (formerly the C&A Foundation), The Rylander Foundation, and TENCEL™. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Lewis Perkin’s opinion does not reflect the official position of Big Closets Small Planet, or that of our supporting partners.
Here is a quick dose of inspiration! At Planet Textiles, Mike spoke to Spencer Null about Natural Fiber Welding's breakthrough solution: enabling natural fibers like cotton to behave like polyester. Is this a game changer? It is if it means poor quality fibers can be upgraded to premium fibers... Listen to this bite size pod to get a quick lesson on cool chemistry, and get inspired by a potentially disruptive approach. This interview was recorded in June 2019.
This podcast is supported by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Do you ever wonder how CEOs from some of our industry's most influential companies view the big social and environmental challenges we are facing today and the potential of business and innovation to adequately address these? TENCEL is a sponsor of this podcast series, so Michael took the chance and invited Lenzing's CEO Stefan Doboczky to discuss a wide range of topics in a recent interview. They touch upon Stefan's expectations of business leaders, the economics of sustainability investments, the circular model of Lenzing, the danger of short-termism, the conservative nature of the industry, climate change and forestry, and Stefan's personal view of a better world where "being something is more important than having something..." If you ever wanted to peek into the mind of a global fiber company CEO, here is your chance. This podcast is supported by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and is part of the #MakeItFeelRight campaign from TENCEL™. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Dr. Lea Esterhuizen, an expert in gathering sensitive data from scared populations, believes we are unwittingly eating and wearing products that have likely been made or assembled using forced labor. Typically the apparel industry has used the "social audit" to address this problem. But social audits provide an incomplete picture of the situation. "There is a serious problem with worker invisibility". And that is why Lea started &Wider. Listen in to hear Lea describe her company’s elegant method to enhance social auditing by gathering anonymous data from workers - making the invisible visible. To paraphrase Lea, fast fashion has been toxic, but it has also taught brands to be fast and innovative.
This podcast is supported by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Mike had the unique opportunity to sit down with an impact investor and a vertical manufacturer to share their real world views on what it takes to accelerate the uptake of sustainable apparel technologies in the apparel supply chain. Tanvi Karambelkar, representing the newly launched Good Fashion Fund, introduces the fund’s pioneering approach for providing financing to manufacturers who want to invest in high impact but often disruptive technologies - which are very high risk. Abhishek Bansal, representing Arvind - a vertical manufacturer based in India, describes the challenge of implementing radically new technologies in practice. Listen in as these two experts break down the complexities, share their views on larger industry trends and highlight what needs to happen to transform the industry in the short and longer terms. “The problem with the textile industry is that it is still seen as a niche. But the problems we are solving with our fund are universal...” This is a great learning conversation, if we do say so ourselves! We hope you agree.
This podcast is supported by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
At Planet Textiles, Mike Schragger spoke with two of his favorite chemical and textiles experts, Phil Patterson and Linda Greer, about the state of the industry regarding chemical management in textiles today. If this does not sound sexy to you, then you don't know Phil and Linda! In addition to getting a primer on chemical history and good and bad chemicals (hint: salt and starch can be bad too, in case you were wondering...), Phil and Linda get "into the weeds" by addressing some of the most important issues debated today, such as: 1) does the high profile ZDHC initiative, which a significant number of key players have joined, have the potential to make a significant difference; 2) if Greenpeace's sudden departure as a textile watchdog is a serious blow to those who want to accelerate change; and 3) where innovation is and should be taking place. They agree and disagree, and their answers will surprise and delight you - and hopefully make you smarter.
This podcast is supported by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
The founders of Tyton BioSciences are not personally interested in fashion, but that won’t stop them from using subcritical water to help solve the current textile-recycling conundrum. Mike Schragger talks to Luke Henning, CFO of Tyton, about their unique process for separating cellulose from polyester in blended materials.
This podcast is sponsored by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Nearly 6 million tons of leftover textiles - the equivalent 18 million new clothes - are wasted in South East Asia and China alone. If we could remanufacture these textiles and reuse them, or ensure we only produce what we need when we need it, we may be able to significantly reduce the environmental impacts of clothing production and support the transition to a circular fashion system. Mike Schragger talks with Nin Castle from Reverse Resources and Ian Brown and Dale Floer from Scalable Garment Technologies about their groundbreaking solutions for turning mountains of textile waste into valuable resources and for reducing the amount of waste overall. Are you curious what their innovative solutions are? Think data mining, a textile waste marketplace and 3D printing inspired knitting machines!
This podcast is sponsored by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
In a refreshingly candid and constructive interview, Mike spoke with the H&M group’s Kim Hällström about what has happened since the company first made their important public climate commitment and what we can learn from the H&M group’s insights and experiences in order to help the entire apparel industry reduce its emissions in line with a 1,5 degree warming pathway. Considering we are in a state of emergency when it comes to global heating, this is an interview you can’t afford to miss.
This podcast is sponsored by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
If we knew the specific climate impacts of each of our purchases, such as the greenhouse gas emissions of our favourite dress or shoes, would we make more climate friendly purchases? And would the companies who make fashion and apparel products – now knowing that we know the climate impacts of our clothing purchases - offer more climate friendly options? In other words, can consumption and effective climate action go hand-in-hand or are we kidding ourselves? Mike spoke with Johan Pihl and Jacob Odqvist, two entrepreneurs who are developing a number of solutions that they say will make it easier for you and me – as consumers – to fight climate change.
This podcast is supported by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Mike speaks with Edwin Keh, CEO of the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles & Apparel Limited, about his team's pioneering and surprising breakthrough in the area of textile recycling, his deep conviction that to accelerate the development and uptake of sustainable solutions our industry needs to do R&D very differently, and why industry innovation - for its own sake - is misguided. And if that's not interesting enough for you, the "professor," as Mike refers to him, also weighs in on the historical relationship between China and "the West", the fundamental limitations of today's business models, and why he has become the "favorite son-in-law."
This podcast is supported by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Do you get excited when hearing about breakthrough sustainability apparel innovations - such as fibers made from fruit waste or blockchain technology being used to track and trace the origin and content of your clothing? Do you sometimes wonder if these breakthroughs are too good to be true? Greg Stillman and Rogier van Mazijk work with visionary entrepreneurs and impact investors every day. So Mike asked them for their perspectives on the hottest sustainable fashion innovations and business ideas right now. These guys are smart, so it is no surprise that Mike got more input than he bargained for. Greg and Rogier also took the opportunity to sound off on a broader range of crucial topics, including what the fashion industry can learn from other industries; the major opportunities and barriers to scaling many of these promising ideas; and what they get inspired by. If you need help orienting yourself to the field of sustainable apparel innovation, then this podcast is essential listening for you.
This podcast is supported by the C&A Foundation, the H&M Foundation, The Rylander Foundation, and Tencel. It is produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Jason Kibbey, CEO of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), has been been leading one of the most important sustainability trade organizations in the apparel sector for the past 8 years. Jason joins Mike Schragger online from his office in San Francisco to chat about the progress the apparel sector is making, his assessment of the SAC to date, and his warning that a circular vision for the apparel sector can become a distraction if it prevents the industry from investing in proven solutions that can be implemented today. This lengthy interview is full of nuanced opinions and inspiration for you sustainability nerds and practitioners, so pour yourself a cup of coffee, turn off your alerts, and enjoy.
This podcast has been produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Sustainable solutions are emerging but is there enough investment capital available to ensure they succeed? Mike Schragger talks with Fashion for Good’s Rogier van Mazijk about the innovation process, the exciting sustainable solutions that could save the fashion industry, and the need for billions, if not trillions of dollars to ensure these innovations can succeed. Investors, innovators, sustainability practitioners and nerds - you will love this, and Rogier is a joy to listen to!
This podcast has been produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Linda Greer, Senior Scientist at the National Resources Defense Council (NRDC) joins Mike Schragger online from her office in Washington, D.C. to share her experiences working to improve the apparel sector, her initial ideas for creating a climate roadmap for apparel and her conviction that transparency as it is practiced today is not effective enough. This lengthy interview is full of nuanced opinions and advice for you sustainability change agents, so pour yourself a cup of tea, turn off your alerts, and enjoy this brain candy.
This podcast has been produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Mike Schragger talks to the smart and savvy Akshay Sethi about the science behind polyester recycling, the rapid development of the his company Moral Fiber, the steep learning curve he has faced when starting a company directly after graduating from university, and his conviction that all of our clothes will be made by recycled materials by 2030.
This podcast has been produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
Then Cynthia Cummis & Michael Sadowski from the World Resources Institute think you should start by setting science-based targets for reducing your climate emissions. Cynthia & Michael joins Mike Schragger online from their offices in Washington, D.C. and Portland, Oregon to discuss the apparel industry’s surprising impact on the climate, the Science-Based Targets Initiative they are leading for the apparel sector, and what they think needs to happen to transform the sector so it operates within a 2 degree Celsius warming pathway as outlined by the IPCC. This lengthy interview is full of nuanced opinions and advice for you sustainability nerds and practitioners, so pour yourself a cup of coffee, turn off your alerts, sit back and enjoy.
This podcast has been produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
What if customers could improve the environment and make money by renting out their clothes simultaneously? And whom do you trust to provide an honest assessment about the ethical and environmental performance of apparel products and the companies behind them? Mike Schragger talks to Lona Alia from Style Lend and Sandra Capponi from Good On You, two entrepreneurs who believe their solutions will empower customers and drive change.
This podcast has been produced in collaboration with Ecotextile News.
If you are new to the field of sustainability and/or fashion and apparel and want to quickly up get up to speed, then this podcast is for you. Mike Schragger, the host of Big Closets Small Planet, uses these 12 minutes to explain why we need to completely transform how we produce, use and dispose of fashion and apparel - before its too late.
Podcasten Big Closets Small Planet är skapad av Michael Schragger. Podcastens innehåll och bilderna på den här sidan hämtas med hjälp av det offentliga podcastflödet (RSS).
En liten tjänst av I'm With Friends. Finns även på engelska.