Are ultra-processed foods really the enemy?
In this conversation, Mark Lynas sits down with Nesli Sözer, research professor at VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland and founder of NAPKIN (Nordic Alternative Protein Knowledge and Innovation Network—yes, the best food acronym ever). Sözer dismantles the myth that processing itself makes food unhealthy, revealing why the NOVA classification system is scientifically flawed and how it threatens the future of sustainable protein.
The UPF panic labels whole grain bread, cheese, and plant-based burgers as "ultra-processed" while ignoring what actually matters: nutritional composition.
The irony? UPF fear-mongering pushes consumers toward "natural" meat—more expensive, less sustainable, fiber-free, and genuinely linked to cancer and disease. We over-consume protein and under-consume fiber. Processing can fix both problems. The real bad idea isn't ultra-processing—it's letting pseudoscience derail the food system transformation we urgently need.
🧠 Topics Discussed:
🔬 NOVA classification: divides foods by processing degree, not nutritional quality
🍞 Absurd UPF examples: whole grain bread, cheese, canned foods labeled "ultra-processed"
🫘 Why processing matters: removes anti-nutritional factors, improves protein digestibility
🦠 Fermentation power: generates umami, probiotics, reduces salt/sugar needs (miso effect)
📊 Fiber crisis: Western diets over-consume protein, critically under-consume fiber
🧬 Precision fermentation: genetically modified microbes produce identical egg/dairy proteins (no GMO in final product)
🏷️ EU labeling ban: MEP Celine Imart pushing to ban "burger," "sausage" for plant foods
🌏 Singapore vs Europe: pragmatic approval vs regulatory paralysis
💰 Price paradox: plant burgers cost 2x meat despite cheaper inputs (pea/fava proteins expensive, soy/wheat cheap but stigmatized)
🌾 Gluten myth: "gluten belly" caused by sugar/fat in baked goods, not protein itself (celiacs are tiny minority)
🔄 Diversification imperative: reduce monoculture dependence (wheat/corn/soy/rice), build resilience
🧪 Finnish innovations: Solar Foods (gas fermentation), enegaVTT spin-outs), cell-cultured avocados
👨🏫 Guest Bio:
Nesli Sözer is a research professor at VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, specializing in plant-based foods, microbial proteins, and hybrid food systems. She founded NAPKIN (Nordic Alternative Protein Knowledge and Innovation Network) and leads multiple EU-funded food innovation projects.
📚 Recommended Reading:
● VTT spin-out companies: Solar Foods, Enifer, ineVolar, Onego Bio, Happy Plant Protein
● EIT Food policy papers on protein diversification
● Research on extrusion processing and fermentation technologies
● Studies on dietary fiber deficiency and health outcomes
💬 Quote Highlights:
(03:31) "NOVA classification divides foods into four categories depending on degree of processing. Whole grain bread that is industrially produced is ultra-processed food and not recommended. It's so wrong." — Nesli Sözer
(06:50) "It's not really the processing, it's how you formulate the food product that becomes important. All those examples given by UPF advocates focus on nutritional quality, not how foods are made or processed." — Nesli Sözer
(15:56) "Think of the extruder like a cow, basically. Instead of feeding grass, you feed ingredients and it's processed into a meat-like structure." — Nesli Sözer
(23:37) "We over-consume proteins. We take too much protein than we need. We are consuming very little dietary fiber, which has direct connection to certain cancer types." — Nesli Sözer
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