Dirty Linen continues our Looking Back, Looking Forward with a question. Is now the best time in a while for an aspiring restaurateur to ask, "Why not now?" Young front-of-house guy James Ness has done just that, opening his Jethro pop-up in Melbourne's Prahran with chef Gitai Ifergan. Conceived on a 'Chap Lap' (we explain) and full of energy and promise, Jethro feels very 2021.
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